Cover Image of ANNAPURNA-IV EXPEDITION

ANNAPURNA-IV EXPEDITION


Max Altitude:
icon 7,525 m
Duration:
icon 35 Days
Starts From:
icon Bensishar
Best Season:
icon Autumn
Activity:
icon Mountaineering
Difficulty:
icon PD+, Physical
Group Size:
icon 2 - 10 people
Accomodation:
icon Lodge / Tented
Trip Fee
$
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About the trek

Highlights Itineraries Date and Cost What To Take Faqs Cost includes / excludes Enquiry Cancellation, inclusions and Policies Vital Information

Need Help?
Talk to our trek coordinator on +977-9856008848

ANNAPURNA-IV 7,525m EXPEDITION 

Mt. Annapurna IV lies in the heart of the Annapurna mountain range and is situated between the summits of Annapurna II and Annapurna III by a spectacular ridge that connects all three mountains. This ridge is an amazing wall, which includes Annapurna I (8091m.), Annapurna II (7,937m.), Annapurna III (7,555m.), Annapurna IV (7,525m.) and Annapurna South (7,220m.). The famous Machhapuchre (fishtail 6,993m.) is also located in the Annapurna range.

The trail follows the river Marsyangdi all the way to its source, the glacial lake in Manang, through the rural farm villages and terraced farm fields from the sub-tropic climate to the arctic landscape and through the rain forest to the alpine woodlands and then reaching the base of Annapurna IV for the climb.

The normal climb is approached from the Manang area from its north side from Hongde and it is considered a relatively easier mountain to climb among all the Annapurnas. This expedition starts from Beshishar on the Annapurna circuit trek trail all the way to Pisang and then to near Hongde from here the trail is towards absolute wilderness nearby the way of Nepal Mountaineering School.

Highlights

  • Impressive, challenging mountain
  • Rarely climbed mountain
  • 1 sherpa each 2 members
  • UIAGM/ IFMGA mountain guide
  • High camp equipment
  • Amazing view of the Himalayan panorama Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Pisang Peak, Chulu peak range , Mt.Manaslu, Damodar Himal range, etc
  • This trip brings you across the spectacular and one of the most popular: Thorong La Pass (5,416m).
  • During this expedition accommodation at Lodges and Tented camp.
  • For mountaineering in Nepal Please bring your insurance coverage for trekking/Mountaineering
  • The lifestyle, culture, tradition, and hospitality of local ethnic groups, especially Gurung People
  • Beautiful and villages in the trekking
  • Exotic floral and faunal diversity along the trekking trail
  • The lush forests, green hills, rugged landscapes.
  • Natural diversity: Greenery, vegetation and terraced farms alongside the trek route
  • You get to walk through the peaceful, off-the-beaten-paths of the  valley,

FIRST ASCENT OF ANNAPURNA-IV

Lying south of Manang and west to Annapurna II, Annapurna IV is relatively easier to all other peaks of Annapurna massif.

The first the ascent of Annapurna IV peak was made by a German-led expedition in 1955. Heinz Steinmetz (expedition leader), West Germany along with two other members Juergen Wellenkamp and Harald Biller, West Germany, made the first the ascent on 5th May 1955 via the Northwest Ridge.

©ANNAPURNA-IV 1955, Not much else is known about this photo. The photograph uploaded by Dirk Pons, grandson of John Henderson. John was a tea planter in Darjeeling, and his wife Jill the secretary of the mountain club, so involved with the sherpas and the provisioning of the various climbs.

ABOUT CLIMBING ROUTE INFO

  • Ascent to Camp 1 5500m
    Leaving base camp it should take around one hour walking to reach the bottom of the mountain and the glacier which leads to rock slopes that must be climbed to reach camp The climbing involves slopes that are approx. 65 – 70 degrees on fix ropes for 500m to reach camp 1. Spectacular views of Manaslu and the majestic Annapurna III.
  • Ascent to Camp 2 6100m
    To reach camp 2 we follow a ridge over rock and ice which may require up to 1000m.of  fixed ropes with some stretches of steep climbing.
  • Ascent to Camp 3 6400m
    From camp 2 to camp 3 the ground moderately steep as we zig-zag up abroad ridge to camp below the steep summit face.
  • Ascent to Camp 4 6850m
    From camp 3 to camp 4 we first cross a broad plateau before making a rising traverse across the NE Face to camp on the ridge.
  • Ascent to Camp 3 Summit 7525m
    From camp 4 to the summit, the generally fixed rope is not be required and we would just move roped UP together. We descend the same route.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW?

  1. This is a mountaineering expedition peak. It demands excellent physical fitness and good health To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Have a good overall standard of fitness and experience in the high mountain. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition.
  2. Climbers must have a substantial climbing experience to join our 7000m peak expedition. climber must have at least one 6000m to 6500m peak before joining us on open enrollment. climber must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high altitude camps and be able to perform at high for multiple in a row at altitude
  3. This expedition climbing requires the proper right equipment and good condition of climbing equipment. Please visit sidebar Colum Equipment list
  4. We do fix line rope system (Himalaya classic system) and somewhere during the climbing place don't have the fixed-line rope that time our guides will do rope up system.
  5. During the acclimatization day around base camp to camp 2, we will do Traning and practice of climbing technique you  If you are not sure whether you are fit or not then please consult us email info@ianepal.com / +977 9856008848 WhatsApp.

Basic technique skills alpine climbing require

  • Rock and ice
  • Rope knots (figure of eight, clove hitch, Italian hitch, prussic, etc.)
  • Using a climbing device (harness, carabineers, ice screw, ice-axe, belay device, jumper,  
  • Flat-footing system (walking) with crampon on ice and snow (up, down and traverses)
  • Ascending
  • Descending
  • Belaying technique
  • Anchorage system
  • Basic pully system 

 

Itineraries

Day 1: Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1400m)

Day 2: Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition briefing and preparing

Day 3: Drive to Bensishar

Day 4: Drive to Chame

Day 5: Drive to Humde village

Day 6: Rest at Humde for acclimatization and explore surrounding (trek to Ngwal village and back)

Day 7: Trek to Annapurna IV base camp

Day 8-27: Climbing period Annpurna IV (7,525m)

Day 28: Trek to Manang village

Day 29: Trek to Thorung Phedi

Day 30: Trek to Muktinath 3,800m via Thorang-la pass 5,416m

Day 31: Trek to Jomsom

Day 32: Fly to Pokhara afternoon free at leisure

Day 33: Leisure day in Kathmandu City

Day 34: Free Day at Kathmandu

Day 35: Transfer to International Airport for final departure

Date and Cost

will update soon...

What To Take

Equipment information of ANNAPURNA-IV expedition 

Down Jacket big one at the base camp (20˚ to -30˚), Down suit, Sleeping bag (-25˚ to -40˚)

 

Climbing equipment for Expedition 

Helmet, Harness, Ice-axe semi a normal one, Lock carabineers, Unlock carabineers, Quickdraw (2Pic), Tape sling (60cm and 120cm), Auxiliary cord (assistance rope) - 7mm (5mters), Cow’s tail personal safety cord, Belay device (eight, ATC guide or reverso), Ascender (jumer), Micro traxtion (If you have),Ice screw (10cm and 12cm), Crampons (normal one)

Regular trekking equipment 

Primary Essential 

Passport, Money, Credit Cards, Personal Travel Insurance, Passport size photos, Pen & dairy book, Communication device (laptops, Tap or phone), Camera

Eye protection

Sunglass UV more than 500%, 

Note: - if you have eyes problem please consult your doctor because of in Nepal High Mountain has dry air and in the city so much dust

Skin protection

Sunblock cream SPF 25 to 50 (small tube), Lip balm SPF 10 to 15

Note:-depending your skin, please consult your doctor (as our experience some of my clients get allergy from sunblock cream)

Other accessories

Day backpack (15 ltr to 20 ltr), Duct tape (few meters –you can roll-on water bottle or trekking pole), Portable solar charger, Backup power bank, Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste, and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, a mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers, etc and rain cover

FAQs

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What type of Travel Insurance do I need for Mount ANNAPURNA-IV Expedition?  

it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 7000m altitude. 

Insurance for Canadians and Americans

For Australians and New Zealanders

For British

For Europe 

For South-Africa

Where and How do I get a Visa for Nepal?

As soon as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will get a visa on arrival.

Visa Type

         Tourist Visa

  •     15 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 30$.
  •     30 days Tourist Visa costs USD 50$
  •     90 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 125$.

Gratis(Free) Visa

For South Asian countries like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, gratis visa for 30 days is available for the first visit in one visa year.

Nepal Visa For Indian Nationals

Indian Tourist does not require a visa to enter in Nepal. To know more visit: Nepal Immigration

What do I Need to Get Nepal Visa?

  • Two Passport-sized photos with a light background.
  • Bring Cash USD to get the visa fee.
  • Your passport must valid for at least 6 months.

What type of Accommodation Do I Get at the Mt. ANNAPURNA-IV expedition?

At City: Kathmandu 

  • Hotel / Resorts ( one room for two people)
  • Note: if you need a single room, email us at info@ianepal.com

While Trekking:

·         Eco Lodges ( a small house with few rooms at remote areas)

While Climbing:

  • Tented Camp (minimum 2 people in one tent) above base camp
  • Infinity adventure Nepal provides you v25 model mountaineering Dome Tent.
  • For Single Tent at Himlung Himal base camp each expedition member 

Does Climbing Guide Need for Mt. ANNAPURNA-IV Climbing?

Yes, Climbing Guide is very essential for Mt. ANNAPURNA-IV Peak Climbing because it is not just for being a bit technical, but also due to several reasons like:

  • Climbing Rules and Regulations of Nepal Government.
  • Provide Climbing Training Before Any Climbing
  • Guide Route, Fix Ropes or alpine-style climbing in small group 
  • Sound Altitude Experience
  • Personal Care and Safety, Medical Care
  • Crossing Glacier or Ridges (Crevasses Fields) with Ladder
  • Help for Using all mountaineering gears and equipment, use of Oxygen, high altitude food
  • Provide high mountain rescue techniques at an avalanche.
  • Mountain weather forecast
  • Speak Fluently English

Is this peak suitable for beginners who don't have previous climbing experience?

It is not a suitable peak for a beginner but you will need climbing courses and experience in high mountains above 6000m before you joined the Mt. ANNAPURNA-IV expedition. For the beginner want to join this expedition Please inform us at email info@ianepal.com / +977 9856008848 what’s up app. 

How busy is this Peak?

Comparatively, this expedition is a much popular mountaineering expedition among the climbers. It has lees human traffic as compared to other peaks. You will rarely meet more than 5 to 20 people during your climbing trip.

Which season is the best to summit this peak?

In our vast experience in this field, we recommend a month because our geography and our weather format

we recommended this expedition September to November (Autumn Season)

West region – mid-April, May, mid-September, October, November and till mid-December

East region – April, May, October, November and till mid-December

The trekking and climbing routes are open throughout the four-season although there will be the problems of weather conditions and other circumstances in some season.

Do I need to bring all the climbing gear and equipment personally?

Most of the climbers use their own climbing gear and equipment so it's better if you have your own. Even if you don't have personal gears and equipment you can rent or buy in Kathmandu.

Note: alpine boot and crampon must be a good size and good condition. Better to bring and have your own. 

How much weight a porter can carry?

Depending upon the steep hills, slopes, and difficulties and high altitude of the trail one porter can carry 25 to 30 kilograms of weight.

Usually, we provide one porter for one client.

But, We will also provide porter according to the size of your group if needed.

Will my guide be experienced and certified?

We have very experienced guides who highly trained and experienced, have climbed over 6000m to 8000m peaks as well as and have guides experienced for at least 5 years to 18 years. All our guides are certified from IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides, Nepal Mountaineering Association mountaineering Guide, and trekking guides Ministry of Tourism licensed by Nepal Government.

Can we do this climbing peak with kids?

We take bookings for this peak climbing trip for people over 18 years old. 

What is the tipping ratio? Do I have to pay the tip for climbing guides and porters? If yes, how much?

In Nepal cultural wise, the tip is expected by the climbing guides and base camp Nepali team 

  • USD 100-150 for support staff/helpers who stay base camp
  • USD 200-300  for the base camp head cook
  • USD 250-300 for Sherpa/Base camp guide who manages the base camp
  • USD 600-800 for climbing guide sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit

Do I need to carry Oxygen cylinder and Gamow Bag (PAC)?

Normally, we will add this expedition to each expedition member's Oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator using above camp 3. For the Gamow Bag (PAC) with only at base camp. In case of your requirements or your health issue, the staff of our company IANEPAL will provide you in case of an emergency.

Trek cost includes / excludes

Whats Included

Documentation: - Climbing permit, national park fees, rope fixing fees, and coordination with relevant government ministries. All government taxes are included in the price

Accommodation: - 6-night hotel in Kathmandu 3* Hotel, lodge during trekking and best camping tented at base camp full setup, and one sleeping tent v25 model each member at base camp and one tent searing base 2 people above base camp

Transport: - private bus and off-road Jeep bensishar, koto and pokhara, International airport arrival & departure, all land transportation around cities with a private vehicle, Helicopter evacuation for Nepali team, Porter or yaks for this expedition, 

Communication: - Sat phone with a normal charge for use, Walkie-talkies for mountaineering team, weather report

Light: - Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras, and handheld video cameras). And reading light at each tent in base camp.

Expedition team: - IFMGA Mountain Guide and climbing Sherpas, cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Government Liaison Officer. Equipment allowances & wages for the Nepali expedition team.

Safety equipment: - Oxygen bottle with mask and & regulator at base camp, Gamow bag (PAC), First aid kit, Oxy meter, and common climbing equipment in the group.

Whats not included
  1. Nepal entry visa fee. (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
  2. Personal travel insurance 
  3. Personal climbing and wearing gear 
  4. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (Except welcome dinner).
  5. International airfare from/to your country
  6. Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 20kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg) in the domestic flight
  7. Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  8. Personal Oxygen bottle, mask, and regulator
  9. Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, and lost luggage
  10. Customs duty and import tariffs for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal by air/road as cargo.
  11. License fees for personal satellite phone and communications equipment
  12. Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  13. Tips for guides and expedition Nepali team

Cancellation, inclusions and Policies

will update soon...

Vital Information

RISK AND LIABILITY

IANEPAL will make every effort to ensure that your Expedition is smooth and as pleasant as possible. However, please be reminded that all programs in Nepal are strictly conducted under the rules and regulations of the Nepal Government and Tourism Bureau. Therefore, we shall not be responsible for any changes in the itinerary due to unavoidable circumstances to Government restrictions, landslides, road blockages, flooding, snowfall, political disturbances, illnesses, or accidents. Any additional costs that are a result of such circumstances will be borne by you at the very spot.

HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS

High-altitude illness is due to a decrease in oxygen at high altitude.

Atmospheric pressure decrease as altitude increases but the percentage of oxygen in the air remains constant; as a result, the partial pressure of oxygen decreases with altitude and is at 5500m (18000 feet) is about ½ of that at the sea level.

High-altitude illness is seen in people in people who have recently arrived at high altitude or have just gained altitude and may start any time from few hours to a few days after ascending. High altitude is arbitrarily defined as altitudes higher than 3.000 m (10.000 ft). people with heart and hung decreases may have difficulty at lower altitudes and, rarely, a healthy, a healthy person will develop altitude illness at as low as 2500 m (8.200 ft).... READ MORE


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