BARUNTSE EXPEDITION OVERVIEW
Mt. Baruntse (7129m) is an attractive mountain peak in the heart of the Everest region. Located between Mt. Makalu and Mt. Lhotse, the famous symmetrical peak has a total of four ridges and four summits. Mt. Baruntse Expedition is one of the most satisfying and rewarding climbing experiences in Nepal.
Which comprising Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse and Makalu on the other side. The expedition to Baruntse peak approaches base camp through the pristine wilderness environment of the Hinku valley and the renowned Mera La of Makalu Barun remote valleys of Nepal. Although exciting and challenging, this climbing expedition is considered to be one of the easier climbs of a 7000+ meter peak. Importantly it boasts of a high success rate of scaling the summit and returning safely. From base camp to the western col with its huge glacial plateau, everything will make your ascent challenging and inspiring.
Although its altitude is less than neighboring mountains, you will be in the very heart of the mighty Himalayan peaks. Obviously in front of you the famous Lhotse south face and not far away from the stunning Makalu west pillar. Taking part in the Baruntse climbing involves using many of the varied skills needed for climbing any 8000-meter peaks. No doubt it offers the ideal training of peak climb before embarking on any of the 8000-meter peak expeditions in the Himalayas.
- Amazing view of the Himalayan panorama. It includes Mt. Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8414m), and Cho Oyu (8188m), Makalu and Kanchenjunga
- The secrete mountain valley of hungu valley
- Highest pass Mera la (5,415m)
- You will enter 2 national parks Sagarmatha National Park and Makalu-Barun national park
- The lifestyle, culture, tradition, and hospitality of local ethnic groups, especially Sherpa and Rai.
- Beautiful and villages in the trekking
- Exotic floral and faunal diversity along the trekking trail. You will see Rhododendron, pine, and oak forest along the trails.
- The lush forests, green hills, rugged landscapes.
- Natural diversity: Greenery, vegetation and terraced farms alongside the trek route
- You get to walk through the peaceful, off-the-beaten-paths of the Makalu Barun valley,
- You can click awesome photographs of the unspoiled and crisp hungu valley.
Geoff Harrow and Colin Todd were the first to ascend the peak from the South-East ridge in the year 1954. The Mountaineers were from the New Zealand expedition team. The trek to the Baruntse Peak passes through the uninhabited, remote settlements in the wilderness of the Hinku valley.
The ascent route for Baruntse expedition is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous west pass; this is in fact the traditional route opened by Hillary and Ship ton in 1952.
ABOUT CLIMBING ROUTE
Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in the approach of the mountain. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the southeast ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the Southeast Ridge. We then move through steep slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m.
From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we passed through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.
THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW?
- This is a mountaineering expedition peak. It demands excellent physical fitness and good health To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Have a good overall standard of fitness and experience in the high mountain. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition.
- Climbers must have a substantial climbing experience to join our 7000m peak expedition. climber must have at least one 5500m to 6000m peak before joining us on open enrollment. climber must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high altitude camps and be able to perform at high for multiple in a row at altitude
- This expedition climbing requires the proper right equipment and good condition of climbing equipment. Please visit sidebar Colum Equipment list
- We do fix line rope system (Himalaya classic system) and somewhere during the climbing place don't have the fixed-line rope that time our guides will do rope up system.
- During the acclimatization day around base camp to camp 2, we will do Traning and practice of climbing technique you If you are not sure whether you are fit or not then please consult us email firstname.lastname@example.org / +977 9856008848 WhatsApp.
Basic technique skills alpine climbing require
- Rock and ice
- Rope knots (figure of eight, clove hitch, Italian hitch, prussic etc.)
- Using a climbing device (harness, carabineers, ice screw, ice-axe, belay device, jumper,
- Flat-footing system (walking) with crampon on ice and snow (up, down and traverses)
- Belaying technique
- Anchorage system
- Basic pully system
Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1400m)
Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition briefing and preparing
Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and trek to Chutanga (3,060m)
Trek from Chutanga to Tuli Kharka (3,900m) Via Zatrawa La Pass (4,610m)
Trek from Tuli Kharka to Kothe (4,095m)
Trek from Kothe to Thangnak (4,350m)
Trek from Thangnak to Khare (5,054m)
Acclimatization at Khare (rest day)
Trek from Khare to Khamedingma: Camping
Trek from Khamedingma to Seto Pokhari (5,035m): Camping
Trek from Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Basecamp (5,400m)
: Climbing Period [Basecamp - Baruntse Summit (7,129m) - Basecamp]
Trek from Baruntse Basecamp to Khamedingma : Camping
Trek from Khamedingma to Thangnak
Trek from Thagnak to Chatrabu
Trek from Chatrabu to Lukla
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Valley & transfer to the Hotel
Leisure day in Kathmandu City
Transfer to International Airport for final departure
Date and Cost
will update soon...
What To Take
Equipment information of BARUNTSE PEAK expedition
Down Jacket big one at the base camp (20˚ to -30˚), Down suit, Sleeping bag (-25˚ to -40˚)
Climbing equipment for Himlung Himal Expedition
Helmet, Harness, Ice-axe semi a normal one, Lock carabineers, Unlock carabineers, Quickdraw (2Pic), Tape sling (60cm and 120cm), Auxiliary cord (assistance rope) - 7mm (5mters), Cow’s tail personal safety cord, Belay device (eight, ATC guide or reverso), Ascender (jumer), Micro traxtion (If you have),Ice screw (10cm and 12cm), Crampons (normal one)
Regular trekking equipment
Passport, Money, Credit Cards, Personal Travel Insurance, Passport size photos, Pen & dairy book, Communication device (laptops, Tap or phone), Camera
Sunglass UV more than 500%,
Note: - if you have eyes problem please consult your doctor because of in Nepal High Mountain has dry air and in the city so much dust
Sunblock cream SPF 25 to 50 (small tube), Lip balm SPF 10 to 15
Note:-depending your skin, please consult your doctor (as our experience some of my clients get allergy from sunblock cream)
Day backpack (15 ltr to 20 ltr), Duct tape (few meters –you can roll-on water bottle or trekking pole), Portable solar charger, Backup power bank, Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste, and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, a mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers, etc and rain cover
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What type of Travel Insurance do I need for Mount BARUNTSE PEAK Expedition?
it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 7000m altitude.
Insurance for Canadians and Americans
For Australians and New Zealanders
Where and How do I get a Visa for Nepal?
As soon as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will get a visa on arrival.
- 15 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 30$.
- 30 days Tourist Visa costs USD 50$
- 90 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 125$.
For South Asian countries like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, gratis visa for 30 days is available for the first visit in one visa year.
Nepal Visa For Indian Nationals
Indian Tourist does not require a visa to enter in Nepal. To know more visit: Nepal Immigration
What do I Need to Get Nepal Visa?
- Two Passport-sized photos with a light background.
- Bring Cash USD to get the visa fee.
- Your passport must valid for at least 6 months.
What type of Accommodation Do I Get at the Mt. BARUNTSE PEAK expedition?
At City: Kathmandu
- Hotel / Resorts ( one room for two people)
- Note: if you need a single room, email us at email@example.com
· Eco Lodges ( a small house with few rooms at remote areas)
- Tented Camp (minimum 2 people in one tent) above base camp
- Infinity adventure Nepal provides you v25 model mountaineering Dome Tent.
- For Single Tent at Himlung Himal base camp each expedition member
Does Climbing Guide Need for Mt. BARUNTSE PEAK Climbing?
Yes, Climbing Guide is very essential for Mt. BARUNTSE PEAK Climbing because it is not just for being a bit technical, but also due to several reasons like:
- Climbing Rules and Regulations of Nepal Government.
- Provide Climbing Training Before Any Climbing
- Guide Route, Fix Ropes or alpine-style climbing in small group
- Sound Altitude Experience
- Personal Care and Safety, Medical Care
- Crossing Glacier or Ridges (Crevasses Fields) with Ladder
- Help for Using all mountaineering gears and equipment, use of Oxygen, high altitude food
- Provide high mountain rescue techniques at an avalanche.
- Mountain weather forecast
- Speak Fluently English
Is this peak suitable for beginners who don't have previous climbing experience?
It is not a suitable peak for a beginner but you will need climbing courses and experience in high mountains above 6000m before you joined the Mt. BARUNTSE expedition. For the beginner want to join this expedition Please inform us at email firstname.lastname@example.org / +977 9856008848 WhatsApp.
How busy is this Peak?
Comparatively, this BARUNTSE PEAK expedition is a much popular mountaineering expedition among the climbers. It has lees human traffic as compared to other peaks. You will rarely meet more than 5 to 20 people during your climbing trip.
Which season is the best to summit this peak?
In our vast experience in this field, we recommend a month because our geography and our weather format
West region – mid-April, May, mid-September, October, November and till mid-December
East region – April, May, October, November and till mid-December
The trekking and climbing routes are open throughout the four-season although there will be the problems of weather conditions and other circumstances in some season.
Do I need to bring all the climbing gear and equipment personally?
Most of the climbers use their own climbing gear and equipment so it's better if you have your own. Even if you don't have personal gears and equipment you can rent or buy in Kathmandu.
Note: alpine boot and crampon must be a good size and good condition. Better to bring and have your own.
How much weight a porter can carry?
Depending upon the steep hills, slopes, and difficulties and high altitude of the trail one porter can carry 25 to 30 kilograms of weight.
Usually, we provide one porter for one client.
But, We will also provide porter according to the size of your group if needed.
Will my guide be experienced and certified?
We have very experienced guides who highly trained and experienced, have climbed over 6000m to 8000m peaks as well as and have guides experienced for at least 5 years to 18 years. All our guides are certified from IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides, Nepal Mountaineering Association mountaineering Guide, and trekking guides Ministry of Tourism licensed by Nepal Government.
Can we do this climbing peak with kids?
We take bookings for this peak climbing trip for people over 18 years old.
What is the tipping ratio? Do I have to pay the tip for climbing guides and porters? If yes, how much?
In Nepal cultural wise, the tip is expected by the climbing guides and base camp Nepali team
- USD 100-150 for support staff/helpers who stay base camp
- USD 200-300 for the base camp head cook
- USD 250-300 for Sherpa/Base camp guide who manages the base camp
- USD 600-800 for climbing guide sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit
Do I need to carry Oxygen cylinder and Gamow Bag (PAC)?
Normally, we will add this expedition to each expedition member's Oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator using above camp 3. For the Gamow Bag (PAC) with only at base camp. In case of your requirements or your health issue, the staff of our company IANEPAL will provide you in case of an emergency.
Trek cost includes / excludes
Documentation: - Climbing permit, national park fees, rope fixing fees, and coordination with relevant government ministries. All government taxes are included in the price
Accommodation: - 6-night hotel in Kathmandu 3* Hotel, lodge during trekking and best camping tented at base camp full setup, and one sleeping tent v25 model each member at base camp and one tent searing base 2 people above base camp
Transport: - Domestic flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, International airport arrival & departure, all land transportation around cities with a private vehicle, Helicopter evacuation for Nepali team, Porter or yaks for this expedition,
Communication: - Sat phone with a normal charge for use, Walkie-talkies for mountaineering team, weather report
Light: - Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras, and handheld video cameras). And reading light at each tent in base camp.
Expedition team: - IFMGA Mountain Guide and climbing Sherpas, cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Government Liaison Officer. Equipment allowances & wages for the Nepali expedition team.
Safety equipment: - Oxygen bottle with mask and & regulator at base camp, Gamow bag (PAC), First aid kit, Oxy meter, and common climbing equipment in the group.
Whats not included
- Nepal entry visa fee. (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
- Personal travel insurance
- Personal climbing and wearing gear
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (Except welcome dinner).
- International airfare from/to your country
- Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 20kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg) in the domestic flight
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
- Personal Oxygen bottle, mask, and regulator
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, and lost luggage
- Customs duty and import tariffs for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal by air/road as cargo.
- License fees for personal satellite phone and communications equipment
- Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
- Tips for guides and expedition Nepali team
Cancellation, inclusions and Policies
will update soon...
Notice on Domestic Flight (Kathmandu - Lukla)
The Government of Nepal has announced an issue for the flight operation to Lukla. Most of the flights to Lukla will commence from Ramechhap until further notice to avoid the heavy traffic congestion in Kathmandu airport. The airport in Ramechhap is located 130km from Kathmandu (approximately 3-4 hours drive).
Alternatively, helicopter arrangements can be made on 5 people sharing basis with the addition of USD 500 for one way flight per person to change your airplane flights to the helicopter. We will try to coordinate and form groups at the airport for this arrangement, but we cannot guarantee it. The drive to Ramechhap and flight to Lukla is almost always guaranteed unless the flight is canceled due to bad weather conditions.
Travelers are suggested to advise us on the preferred alternatives for the flights to/from Lukla affected due to possible delays or disruptions.
RISK AND LIABILITY
IANEPAL will make every effort to ensure that your Expedition is smooth and as pleasant as possible. However, please be reminded that all programs in Nepal are strictly conducted under the rules and regulations of the Nepal Government and Tourism Bureau. Therefore, we shall not be responsible for any changes in the itinerary due to unavoidable circumstances to Government restrictions, landslides, road blockages, flooding, snowfall, political disturbances, illnesses, or accidents. Any additional costs that are a result of such circumstances will be borne by you at the very spot.
HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS
High-altitude illness is due to a decrease in oxygen at high altitude.
Atmospheric pressure decrease as altitude increases but the percentage of oxygen in the air remains constant; as a result, the partial pressure of oxygen decreases with altitude and is at 5500m (18000 feet) is about ½ of that at the sea level.
High-altitude illness is seen in people in people who have recently arrived at high altitude or have just gained altitude and may start any time from few hours to a few days after ascending. High altitude is arbitrarily defined as altitudes higher than 3.000 m (10.000 ft). people with heart and hung decreases may have difficulty at lower altitudes and, rarely, a healthy, a healthy person will develop altitude illness at as low as 2500 m (8.200 ft).... READ MORE