DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION OVERVIEW
Mt.Dhaulagiri Himalayas is 7th highest mountain peak in the world and 6th highest in Nepal, Mt.Dhaulagiri Himalayas stands tall at an elevation of 8167 meters (26795 feet) above sea level. This spectacular peak’s the name means, benignly enough, the “White Mountain” but Dhaulagiri has come to be known as the mountain of storms and sorrows.
It forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in the Dhaulagiri Zone of north-central Nepal. It lies northwest of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki to the east lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the other eight-thousanders.
Northeast Ridge route which had been reconnoitered one year earlier by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft. The aircraft, a Pilatus PC-6 crashed during an approach and was later abandoned in Hidden Valley north of the mountain. Dhaulagiri is buttressed by five ridges which offer the possibilities of different routes of ascent though six different routes have been established for climbing so far. The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the Normal Route on the mountain. However, ascents have been made from almost every direction for the Dhaulagiri Expedition.
Mt.Dhaulagiri is a true giant, and this is because its mass towers 7000m above the depths of the Kali Gandaki Valley - that happens to be the deepest gorge in the world. This mountain has been both exhilarating, for those that reached the summit and disappointing for those that failed. It can be a wild and stormy climb to the peak. It is definitely only for experienced climbers and not for beginners. There are several routes to the summit, but all require some technical skills, physical and mental challenges.
Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition is although the first of the 8000-meter peaks to be attempted by the French in 1950, who abandoned their bid in favor of Annapurna I, ironically it was the very last 8000-meter peak in Nepal to be climbed. Book “ANNAPURNA-I”
In 1960 that a massive Swiss attempt was successful via the northeast spur. Supplied by a small glacier plane piloted by Ernst Saxer, the expedition finally ended the golden decade of Nepal’s giants by putting four Europeans and two Sherpas on the summit on 13th May 1960. which has been the normal route of the expedition for most of the climbing to date.
See more details about Mt. Dhaulagiri IN Wikipedia
Dhaulagiri First Ascent - Kurt Diemberger, Albin Schelbert, Ngawang Dorje and Nima Dorje-- Peter Diener and Ernst Forrer On Dhaulagiri Summit May 13, 1960
Mt. Dhaulagiri is part of the Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River and west to the Bheri River. The mountain's name is derived from the Sanskrit word “dhawala” meaning dazzling, white, or beautiful and “giri” meaning mountain. Dhaulagiri has come to be known as the mountain of storms and sorrows. Mt. Dhaulagiri is located in the northwest of the Myagdi district in mid west Nepal.
- A more remote climbing experience
- 1 climbing sherpa each member
- UIAGM/ IFMGA mountain guide
- High camp equipment
- The 7th the highest mountain in the world
- An adventurous and challenging mountain climbing in Nepal
- A perfect expedition trip for climbers who want a more intense experience of the high mountains
- Passing through terraced middle hills of Nepal, explore local customs, a way of life, exploring villages and different ethnic groups
- Views across to Annapurna and beyond
About Climbing Routes:
The normal route is via Northeast Ridge, the original route climbed by the Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. Typically 4 camps will be set up for climbing. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5,300m, just to deposit the gear but it will not be used as an overnight camp due to avalanche danger. Hence the Base Camp 4750m will be used as Advance Base Camp for Accommodation and meal purpose.
Camp 1 5,900m on the Col east from the ABC. Along this trail, you will suffer for some avalanche risk as well as crevasses danger. You must be aware of the risks and difficulties. Must be roped up each climber and guide and helmet.
Camp 2 6,400m, which is reached from camp 1 with some steep climbing sections. The ropes shall be fixed and you need some technical climbing experience with the support of your Guide and climbing Sherpa. You need 1 semi-technical Ice Axe as usual.
Camp 3 (7400m) will be located towards the west with steep ice and snow climbing along the ridge of Mountain. Gradually ups and downs will be done several times. You climb towards the East Ridge, where you likely experience strong wind conditions before reaching camp 3. This is the most difficult part of the climb.
Mt. Dhaulagiri climbing route map
Things You Should Know?
- This is a mountaineering expedition peak. It demands excellent physical fitness and good health To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Have a good overall standard of fitness and experience in the high mountain. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition.
- Climbers must have a substantial climbing experience to join our 8000m peak expedition. climber must have at least one 6500m to 7500m peak before joining us on open enrollment. climber must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high altitude camps and be able to perform at high for multiple in a row at altitude
- This expedition climbing requires the proper right equipment and good condition of climbing equipment. Please visit sidebar Colum Equipment list
- We do fix line rope system (Himalaya classic system) somewhere climbing part there is no fixed line rope our guide will do rope up system
- During the acclimatization day around base camp to camp 1, we will do Traning and practice of climbing technique you If you are not sure whether you are fit or not then please consult to us email email@example.com / +977 9856008848
Basic Climbing Technique skill require
- rock and ice climbing
- Rope and knots ( figure of eight, clove hitch, Italian hitch, auto block knots)
- Using climbing equipment (harness, carabineers, ice screw, ice axe, belay device, Jummer
- Flat footing system (walking) with crampon on ice and snow (up, down and traverses)
- Belaying technique
- crevasse rescue technique (self and pully)
Arrival at Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
Rest in Kathmandu and briefing and Preparing
Fly to Pokhara and drive to Dabang
Trek to base camp via Sibang, Jugapani and Italian camp
Climbing Period Mt. Dhaulagiri
Trek to hidden Valley via French col
Trek to Yak kharka via Cross Dhampus Pass
Trek from Yak Kharka to Marpha
Drive to Pokhara from Marpha
Pokhara to Kathmandu
Leisure day in around kathmandu
Transfer to airport, Departure onward destination
Date and Cost
will update soon...
What To Take
Personal Equipment information Of Dhaulagiri expedition
Down Jacket big one at the base camp (20˚ to -30˚), Down suit, Sleeping bag (-25˚ to -40˚)
Helmet, Harness, Ice-axe semi a normal one, Lock carabineers, Unlock carabineers, Quickdraw (2Pic), Tape sling (60cm and 120cm), Auxiliary cord (assistance rope) - 7mm (5mters), Cow’s tail personal safety cord, Belay device (eight, ATC guide or Reverso), Ascender (jumer), Micro Traxion (If you have),Ice screw (10cm and 12cm), Crampons (normal one)
Passport, Money, Credit Cards, Personal Travel Insurance, Passport size photos, Pen & dairy book, the Communication device (laptops, Tap or phone), Camera
Sunglass UV more than 500%,
Note: - if you have eyes problem please consult your doctor because of in Nepal High Mountain has dry air and in the city so much dust
Sunblock cream SPF 25 to 50 (small tube), Lip balm SPF 10 to 15
Note:-depending your skin, please consult your doctor (as our experience some of my clients get allergy from sunblock cream)
Day backpack (15 ltr to 20 ltr), Duct tape (few meters –you can roll-on water bottle or trekking pole), Portable solar charger, Backup power bank, Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste, and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, a mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers, etc and rain cover
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What type of Travel Insurance do I need for Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition?
it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 7000m altitude.
Insurance for Canadians and Americans
For Australians and New Zealanders
Where and How do I get a Visa for Nepal?
As soon as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will get a visa on arrival.
- 15 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 30$.
- 30 days Tourist Visa costs USD 50$
- 90 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 125$.
For South Asian countries like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, a gratis visa for 30 days is available for the first visit in one visa year.
Nepal Visa For Indian Nationals
Indian Tourist does not require a visa to enter in Nepal. To know more visit: Nepal Immigration
What do I Need to Get Nepal Visa?
- Two Passport-sized photos with a light background.
- Bring Cash USD to get the visa fee.
- Your passport must valid for at least 6 months.
What type of Accommodation Do I Get at the Mt. Dhaulagiri expedition?
At City: Kathmandu/ Pokhara
- Hotel / Resorts ( one room for two people)
- Note: if you need a single room, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
· full camping organize - Eco Lodges ( a small house with few rooms at remote areas)
- Tented Camp (minimum 2 people in one tent) above base camp and during trekking
- Infinity adventure Nepal provides you v25 model mountaineering Dome Tent.
- For Single Tent at base camp each expedition member
Does Climbing Guide Need for Mount DHAULAGIRI expedition?
Yes, Climbing Guide is very essential for Mt. Dhaulagiri Peak Climbing because it is not just for being a bit technical, but also due to several reasons like:
- Climbing Rules and Regulations of Nepal Government.
- Provide Climbing Training Before Any Climbing
- Guide Route, Fix Ropes or alpine-style climbing in small group
- Sound Altitude Experience
- Personal Care and Safety, Medical Care
- Crossing Glacier or Ridges (Crevasses Fields) with Ladder
- Help for Using all mountaineering gears and equipment, use of Oxygen, high altitude food
- Provide high mountain rescue techniques at an avalanche.
- Mountain weather forecast
- Speak Fluently English
Is this peak suitable for beginners who don't have previous climbing experience?
It is not a suitable peak for a beginner but you will need climbing courses and experience in high mountains above 6000m to 7000m before you joined the Mt. Dhaulagiri expedition. For the beginner want to join this expedition Please inform us at email email@example.com / +977 9856008848 WhatsApp. we will lead to your dream Dhaulagiri expedition step by steps like course and experience do not hesitate to contact with us
here is how prepper to climbing Mount Everest ... READ MORE
How busy is this Peak?
Comparatively, this expedition is a much popular mountaineering expedition among the climbers.
Which season is the best to summit this peak?
In our vast experience in this field, we recommend a month because of our geography and our weather format.
we recommended this expedition mid-August to first week October (Autumn Season)
West region – mid-April, May, mid-September, October, November and till mid-December
East region – April, May, October, November and till mid-December
The trekking and climbing routes are open throughout the four-season although there will be the problems of weather conditions and other circumstances in some season.
Do I need to bring all the climbing gear and equipment personally?
Most of the climbers use their own climbing gear and equipment so it's better if you have your own. Even if you don't have personal gears and equipment you can rent or buy in Kathmandu.
Will my guide be experienced and certified?
We have very experienced guides who highly trained and experienced, have climbed over 6000m to 8000m peaks as well as and have guides experienced for at least 5 years to 18 years. All our guides are certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides, NMA mountaineering Guide, and trekking guides Ministry of Tourism licensed by Nepal Government.
Can we do this climbing peak with kids?
We take bookings for this mountaineering expedition peak trip for people over 18 years old.
What is the tipping ratio? Do I have to pay the tip for climbing guides and porters? If yes, how much?
In Nepal cultural wise, the tip is expected by the climbing guides and base camp Nepali team
- USD 200-250 for support staff/helpers who stay base camp
- USD 250-400 for the base camp head cook
- USD 250-500 for Sherpa/Base camp guide who manages the base camp
- USD 1000-1400 for climbing guide sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit
Do I need to carry Oxygen cylinder and Gamow Bag (PAC)?
Normally, we will add this expedition to each expedition member's 2-Oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator using above camp 3. For the Gamow Bag (PAC) with only at base camp. In case of your requirements or your health issue, the staff of our company IANEPAL will provide you in case of an emergency.
Trek cost includes / excludes
Documentation: - Climbing permit, national park fees, rope fixing fees, and coordination with relevant government ministries. All government taxes are included in the price
Accommodation: - 6-night hotel in Kathmandu 3* Hotel and Pokhara, lodge during trekking and best camping tented at base camp full setup, and one sleeping tent v25 model each member at base camp and one tent searing base 2 people above base camp
Food: - full board meal during the trek best available hotel/lodges or tea house and climbing
Transport: - Domestic flight round trip Kathmandu-Pokhara- Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu, international airport arrival & departure, all land transportation around cities with a private vehicle, Helicopter evacuation for Nepali team, Porter or yaks for this expedition and cargo domestic flight maximum 20 kg.
Communication: - Sat phone with a normal charge for use, Walkie-talkies for mountaineering team, weather report
Light: - Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras, and handheld video cameras). And reading light at each tent in base camp.
Expedition team: - IFMGA Mountain Guide and climbing Sherpas, cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Government Liaison Officer. Equipment allowances & wages for the Nepali expedition team.
Safety equipment: - Oxygen bottle with mask and & regulator, Gamow bag (PAC), First aid kit, Oxy meter, and common climbing equipment in the group.
Whats not included
- Nepal entry visa fee. (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
- Personal travel insurance
- Personal climbing and wearing gear
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu and Pokhara (Except welcome dinner).
- International airfare from/to your country
- Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 20kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg) in the domestic flight
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
- Personal Oxygen bottle, mask, and regulator
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, and lost luggage
- Customs duty and import tariffs for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal by air/road as cargo.
- License fees for personal satellite phone and communications equipment
- Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
- Tips for guides and expedition Nepali team
Cancellation, inclusions and Policies
will update soon...
HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS
High-altitude illness is due to a decrease in oxygen at high altitude.
Atmospheric pressure decrease as altitude increases but the percentage of oxygen in the air remains constant; as a result, the partial pressure of oxygen decreases with altitude and is at 5500m (18000 feet) is about ½ of that at the sea level.
High-altitude illness is seen in people in people who have recently arrived at high altitude or have just gained altitude, and may start any time from few hours to a few days after ascending. High altitude is arbitrarily defined as altitudes higher than 3.000 m (10.000 ft). people with heart and hung decreases may have difficulty at lower altitudes and, rarely, a healthy, a healthy person will develop altitude illness at as low as 2500 m (8.200 ft).... READ MORE