Mt. AMA DABLAM OVERVIEW
Situated in the Himalayan range of eastern Nepal, the pyramid of Ama Dablam is regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The peak is 6,812m and is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world for its aesthetic beauty and the pure exposure confronted high on its flanks. It can be seen dominating the eastern sky of Mount Everest.
- Amazing view of the Himalayan panorama. It includes Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho-Oyu
- Challenging mountaineering peak
- Summit one of the jewels of the Khumbu valley
- Experience technical climbing under well-protected conditions
- The lifestyle, culture, tradition, and hospitality of local ethnic groups, especially Sherpa
- Beautiful and villages in the trekking
- Exotic floral and faunal diversity along the trekking trail. You will see Rhododendron, pine, and oak forest along the trails.
- The lush forests, green hills, rugged landscapes.
- Natural diversity: Greenery, vegetation and terraced farms alongside the trek route
- You get to walk through the peaceful, off-the-beaten-paths of the Khumbu valley,
- You can click awesome photographs of the unspoiled and crisp khumbu valley
Things You Should Know?
- This peak is an expedition peak. It demands excellent physical fitness and good health To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Have a good overall standard of fitness and experience in the high mountain. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition.
- This expedition climbing requires the proper right equipment and good condition of climbing equipment. Please visit sidebar Colum Equipment list
- Previous Alpine climbing experience in your country mountains or somewhere snow cover mountain in the world and climbing experience in the high altitude above 6000m and at least 1 or 2 peak climb above 6000m.
- we do fix line rope system (Himalaya classic system}
- During the acclimatization day around base camp, we do Traning and practice of climbing technique you are average fit then most of our treks are doable by you. If you are not sure whether you are fit or not then please consult to us email email@example.com / +977 9856008848 WhatsApp
Basic Climbing Technique skill require
- rock and ice climbing
- Rope and knots ( figure of eight, clove hitch, Italian hitch, auto block knots)
- Using climbing equipment (harness, carabineers, ice screw, ice axe, belay device, Jummer
- Flat footing system (walking) with crampon on ice and snow (up, down and traverses)
- Belaying technique
- Anchorage system on rock and ice
- Rescue technique (self and pully)
MEANING OF AMA DABLAM
Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace" the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (Ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the Dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women.
Mt. Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley
FIRST ASCENT OF AMA DABLAM
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge
The route offers a varied and sustained climb with a reasonable level of difficulty. Three high camps are set up at strategic points.
ABOUT CLIMBING ROUTE
The route from BC to Advance Base Camp is simple walking, unless there is ice and snow on the scree. ABC is located on a large plateau and not all teams use this, as water needs to have pottered to it. The height gain from BC to Camp 1 is nearly 1,200m, so it is a good idea to split this initially by using an ABC. Above ABC is the infamous talus field, which must be traversed to reach the fixed ropes that lead up slabs to Camp 1. Camp 1 to Camp 2 is typically 70% on the rock in dervish conditions, with sections of British Grade ‘Severe’. It culminates in a 15m vertical section to reach the top of the ‘Yellow Tower’, just short of Camp 2 (this is normally jumared, using a foot loop). Camp 2 to Camp 3 is mixed rock, snow, and ice, which is loose in places, with the hardest part being below the Grey Tower. From Camp 3, skirt around the hanging glacier or the Dablam, cross snow arête (a sharp ridge) and bergschrund (a gap or crevasse at the edge) between ice cliffs Above Camp 3 snow and ice on the summit, slopes are as steep as 50°.
Camp 1 Camp 2
Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel
Kathmandu, official procedure and necessary day 3 arrangements.
Fly to Lukla then trek to Phakding
Trek to Namche village
Acclimatization day in Namche
Trek to Mt. Amadablam Base Camp 4,600m
Climbing Mt. Ama Dablam
Trek to Namche bazaar
Transfer to International airport
Date and Cost
| 15th April 2021
|| 14th May 2021
| 16th October 2021
|| 14th November 2021
What To Take
Equipment information of Amadablam expedition
Down Jacket big one at the base camp (-20˚ to -30˚), Down Suit, Sleeping bag (-25˚ to -40˚)
Climbing equipment for Amadablam Expedition
Helmet, Harness, Ice-axe semi a normal one, Lock carabineers, Unlock carabineers, Quickdraw (2Pic), Tape sling (60cm and 120cm), Auxiliary cord (assistance rope) - 7mm (5mters), Cow’s tail personal safety cord, Belay device (eight, ATC guide or Reverso), Ascender (jumer), Micro Traxion (If you have), Ice screw (10cm and 12cm), Crampons (normal one)
Passport, Money, Credit Cards, Personal Travel Insurance, Passport size photos, Pen & dairy book, Communication device (laptops, Tap or phone), Camera and other personal documents
Woolen hat, Fleece hat, Balaclava, Headlamp with enough batteries
Sunglass UV more than 500%, Snow goggles
Note: - if you have eyes problem please consult your doctor because of in Nepal High Mountain has dry air and in the city so much dust
Sunblock cream SPF 25 to 50 (small tube), Lip balm SPF 10 to 15
Note:-depending your skin, please consult your doctor (as our experience some of my clients get allergy from sunblock cream)
Down Jacket (- 15˚ to -20˚), Fleece jacket, Gore-Tex Jacket, Trekking t-shirt (quick-dry and breathable), Baselayers Thermal and woolen long shirt
Down pant, Gore-tex pant, Climbing pant, Baselayers Thermal and woolen long trouser, Trekking pant, Trekking short pant, Underwears
Fleece glove, Ski glove, Gore-tex glove, Down mitten glove
One sport 8000m boot, Alpine boot, Trekking shoes, Approach shoes, Sandal, Woolen and normal socks,
Three seasonal Sleeping bag (-15˚ to -20˚), Mattress pad, Sleeping liner
Day backpack (15 ltr to 20 ltr), climbing bag (35 ltr to 50 ltr), Duffle bag (70ltr to 100ltr)
Trekking pole (stick), Drinking water bottle, Pee bottle, Thermos, First aid, Pocket knife, Duct tape (few meters –you can roll-on water bottle or trekking pole), Portable solar charger, Backup power bank, Bathing Suit:- Towel, Toothpaste, and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, a mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers etc.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What type of Travel Insurance do I need for Mount Ama Dablam Expedition?
it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 6500m altitude.
Insurance for Canadians and Americans
For Australians and New Zealanders
Where and How do I get a Visa for Nepal?
As soon as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will get a visa on arrival.
- 15 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 30$.
- 30 days Tourist Visa costs USD 50$
- 90 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 125$.
For South Asian countries like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, gratis visa for 30 days is available for the first visit in one visa year.
Nepal Visa For Indian Nationals
Indian Tourist does not require a visa to enter in Nepal. To know more visit: Nepal Immigration
What do I Need to Get Nepal Visa?
- Two Passport-sized photos with a light background.
- Bring Cash USD to get the visa fee.
- Your passport must valid for at least 6 months.
What type of Accommodation Do I Get at the Mt. AMA-DABLAM expedition?
At City: Kathmandu
- Hotel / Resorts ( one room for two people)
- Note: if you need a single room, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
· Eco Lodges ( a small house with few rooms at remote areas)
- Tented Camp (minimum 2 people in one tent) above base camp
- Infinity adventure Nepal provides you v25 model mountaineering Dome Tent.
- For Single Tent at base camp each expedition member
Does Climbing Guide Need for Mount Ama Dablam expedition?
Yes, Climbing Guide is very essential for Mt. Ama Dablam Peak Climbing because it is not just for being a bit technical, but also due to several reasons like:
- Climbing Rules and Regulations of Nepal Government.
- Provide Climbing Training Before Any Climbing
- Guide Route, Fix Ropes or alpine-style climbing in small group
- Sound Altitude Experience
- Personal Care and Safety, Medical Care
- Crossing Ridges and vertical climbing
- Help for Using all mountaineering gears and equipment, use of Oxygen, high altitude food
- high mountain rescue techniques
- Mountain weather forecast
- Speak Fluently English
Is this peak suitable for beginners who don't have previous climbing experience?
It is not a suitable peak for a beginner but you will need climbing courses and experience in high mountains above 6000m before you joined the Mt. Amadablam expedition. For the beginner want to join this expedition Please inform us at email email@example.com / +977 9856008848 what’s up app.
How busy is this Peak?
Comparatively, this Amadablam expedition is a much popular mountaineering expedition among the climbers. It has lees human traffic as compared to other peaks. You will rarely meet more than 20 to 50 people during your climbing trip.
Which season is the best to summit this peak?
In our vast experience in this field, we recommend a month because of our geography and our weather format.
West region – mid-April, May, mid-September, October, November and till mid-December
East region – April, May, October, November and till mid-December
The trekking and climbing routes are open throughout the four-season although there will be the problems of weather conditions and other circumstances in some season.
Do I need to bring all the climbing gear and equipment personally?
Most of the climbers use their own climbing gear and equipment so it's better if you have your own. Even if you don't have personal gears and equipment you can rent or buy in Kathmandu.
Will my guide be experienced and certified?
We have very experienced guides who highly trained and experienced, have climbed over 6000m to 8000m peaks as well as and have guides experienced for at least 5 years to 18 years. All our guides are certified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides, NMA mountaineering Guide, and trekking guides Ministry of Tourism licensed by Nepal Government.
Can we do this climbing peak with kids?
We take bookings for this mountaineering expedition peak trip for people over 18 years old.
What is the tipping ratio? Do I have to pay the tip for climbing guides and porters? If yes, how much?
In Nepal cultural wise, the tip is expected by the climbing guides and base camp Nepali team
- USD 200-250 for support staff/helpers who stay base camp
- USD 250-400 for the base camp head cook
- USD 250-500 for Sherpa/Base camp guide who manages the base camp
- USD 1000-1400 for climbing guide sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit
Do I need to carry Oxygen cylinder and Gamow Bag (PAC)?
Normally, you don't need to carry an oxygen cylinder and a Gamow bag. In case of your requirements or your health issue, the staff of our company IANEPAL will provide you in case of an emergency.
Trek cost includes / excludes
Documentation: - Climbing permit, national park fees, rope fixing fees, and coordination with relevant government ministries. All government taxes are included in the price
Accommodation: - 6-night hotel in Kathmandu 3* Hotel, lodge during trekking and best camping tented at base camp full setup, and one sleeping tent v25 model each member at base camp and one tent searing base 2 person above base camp
Food: - full board meal during the trek best available hotel/lodges or tea house and climbing
Transport: - Domestic flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, international airport arrival & departure, all land transportation around cities with private vehicle, Helicopter evacuation for Nepali team, Porter or yaks for this expedition and cargo domestic flight maximum 20 kg.
Communication: - Sat phone with a normal charge for use, Walkie-talkies for mountaineering team, weather report
Light: - Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras, and handheld video cameras). And reading light at each tent in base camp.
Expedition team: - IFMGA Mountain Guide and climbing Sherpas, cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Government Liaison Officer. Equipment allowances & wages for the Nepali expedition team.
Safety equipment: - Oxygen bottle with mask and & regulator, Gamow bag (PAC), First aid kit, Oxy meter, and common climbing equipment in the group.
Whats not included
- Nepalese visa
- Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
- Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
- International airfare from/to your country
- Nepal entry visa fee. (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (Except welcome dinner).
- Personal climbing gear
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, and lost luggage
- Customs duty and import tariffs for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal by air/road as cargo.
- License fees for personal satellite phone and communications equipment
- Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
- Tips for guides and expedition Nepali team
Cancellation, inclusions and Policies
HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS
High-altitude illness is due to a decrease in oxygen at high altitude.
Atmospheric pressure decrease as altitude increases but the percentage of oxygen in the air remains constant; as a result, the partial pressure of oxygen decreases with altitude and is at 5500m (18000 feet) is about ½ of that at the sea level.
High-altitude illness is seen in people in people who have recently arrived at high altitude or have just gained altitude, and may start any time from few hours to a few days after ascending. High altitude is arbitrarily defined as altitudes higher than 3.000 m (10.000 ft). people with heart and hung decreases may have difficulty at lower altitudes and, rarely, a healthy, a healthy person will develop altitude illness at as low as 2500 m (8.200 ft).... READ MORE
it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 7000m altitude.
Please take a copy of your insurance policy to the pre-trip briefing, as the guide will need to collect your insurance details. We also ask that you keep a copy of your policy summary (containing policy number and emergency contact number for you insure) in your daysack at all the time, so that we can access the information should wee need to contact the insured on your behalf.
PASSPORT AND VISA
Please double-check that your passport is valid for 6 months beyond the date of arrival in Nepal. We recommend that you take a photocopy of your passport and keep it separate from the original, and this will be useful if the original is lost while you are traveling. You must carry your passport on the trip with you, as it is required for internal flights.
Namche Bazaar (3,440m) is a tourist hub and the most popular resting stop in the Khumbu region. This hilly settlement is shaped like a horseshoe and positioned in a very unconventional location. Immediately west of this bustling town is Kongde Ri (6,187m) and to the east is Thamserku (6,608m). In addition to the abundant hotels and lodges, Namche boasts of three small museums, a stupa, a monastery, several bakeries (cafes), and many well-stocked stores. Here, trekkers can access modern communication facilities to stay connected to the outside world.
Namche Bazaar, a gateway to the high Himalayas and known for offering wonderful views of the snow-capped peaks, is considered to hold the distinction of being the wealthiest district in Nepal. It is in fact, a junction of trekking trails where different Everest trek routes have diverged.
Tengboche Monastery is one of the most famous monasteries of Nepal, probably because of its unrivaled backdrop of Mt. Ama Dablam. The monastery is the leading Buddhist center in the Khumbu a region with a residing Rinpoche who blesses pilgrims, mountaineers, and travelers passing through.
Every October, Tengboche Monastery hosts the colorful Mani Rimdu festival, which is a culmination of Buddhist celebrations with a religious gathering, songs, ritual dances, and enactments of the lives of legendary figures. Visitors are always welcomed to partake in the festivities and many trekkers book their trek to coincide with the festival. Tours of the monastery are conducted every afternoon for visitors. Tengboche lies on the very popular trek route to the Everest region.
which was renamed the Tenzing Hillary Airport in 2008, are both extremely small and extremely busy. With its short runaway, steep incline, and quickly changing weather, Lukla has one of the most challenging runways in the world. In fact, for the past 20 years, it has been named the most dangerous airport in the world. High winds, low lying clouds, and sudden changes in visibility are some of the reasons behind this title. Bad weather is also a huge factor in the frequent cancellation of flights. Lukla is a gateway for Everest region trekking and climbing.
Mt.Everest 8848 masl.Nepal's Mount Everest (8848 meters) is the tallest Mountain on the earth. The Summit is called Sagarmatha in Nepal. The highest mountain was named Everest by Sir Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor-general of India in honors of his predecessor Sir George. The majestic Mt. Everest was ultimately conquered by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa hailing from Nepal along with his New Zealander counterpart Sir Edmund Hillary at 11:30 AM on May 29, 1953 via the South col route.