Cover Image of TILICHO PEAK EXPEDITION- 2021

TILICHO PEAK EXPEDITION- 2021


Max Altitude:
icon 7,134m
Duration:
icon 30 Days
Starts From:
icon Bensishar
Best Season:
icon Aurumn
Activity:
icon Mountaineering Expedition
Difficulty:
icon PD+, Physical
Group Size:
icon 1 - 10 people
Accomodation:
icon Lodge and Tented
Trip Fee
$$$$
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About the trek

Highlights Itineraries Date and Cost What To Take Faqs Cost includes / excludes Enquiry Cancellation, inclusions and Policies Vital Information

Need Help?
Talk to our trek coordinator on +977-9856008848

ABOUT TILICHO EXPEDITION OVERVIEW

The Peak Tilicho situated in the north of Manang in the Annapurna Region. This peak is towers at the height of 7134m in altitude. Tilicho Peak’s northeast ridge covered with snow majestically towers the high Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, while the hidden pro- a kingdom of Mustang lies just a few miles to the north. 

Highlights

  • Great choice of as preliminary training in preparation for the 8000m peaks expedition
  • 1 climbing sherpa 2 member
  • UIAGM/ IFMGA mountain guide
  • High camp equipment
  • An adventurous and challenging mountain climbing in Nepal
  • A perfect expedition trip for climbers who want a more intense experience of the high mountains
  • Passing through terraced middle hills of Nepal, explore local customs, a way of life, exploring villages and different ethnic groups
  • Views across to Annapurna and beyond

First Ascent of Mount Tilicho Peak

Maurice Herzog reported Tilicho in 1950 during his exploration of Annapurna. French climber Emanuel Schmutz climbed peak Tilicho for the first time via Northwest Shoulder, which reaches the shores of Lake Tilicho. This is a standard climbing route of the peak with the Base Camp (4800m) located on the Northwest end of the lake.

About Mount Tilicho expedition Caravan Route (Normal)

  • The Northwest Shoulder of Tilicho is a straightforward climb, mainly on snowfields up to 55 deg. It has very little objective danger because a wide shoulder very well protects the entire route. Most of the route is on a snowfield with bottom section potentially on a mix of rock and ice. We establish the Base Camp at 4800m on a shore of a beautiful Lake Tilicho.
  • Camp 1 (5800m) is located on a shelf below the Northwest shoulder accessed by a gradual climb on snow field from the Base Camp and gaining 300m over 1.5km followed by 50 deg 690m route of mixed rock and ice.
  • Camp 2 (6200m) is located on the broad Northwest shoulder accessed from Camp 1 by 55 deg 400m snow routes. Summit is accessible from Camp 2 by 55 deg 900 m snowfield routes along broad well-protected Northwest shoulder.

Our team of Tilicho Expedition

Our team has dozens of trekking peaks, 7000m peak, 8000m peaks, and Everest Summiter between them. Our Team certified from IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide, NMA Mountaineering Guide (climbing sherpa), well trained, and experience. Our group is enthusiastic, motivated, and regarded as the strongest and most cohesive group of the mountain in Nepal. It is indicative of the reputation that our team has an earned-that team from other expeditions enthusiastically pursue a future position with the IANEPAL TEAM. 

Our cooking staffs are very well known for the quality of the cuisine they produce and as a consequence are coveted by other team leaders due to the reputation They have established. We have been developing and training our personal within our team for over 8 years and they have become an integral part of the IANEPAL TEAM.

Things You Should Know?

  1. This is a mountaineering expedition peak. It demands excellent physical fitness and good health To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Have a good overall standard of fitness and experience in the high mountain. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition.
  2. Climbers must have a substantial climbing experience to join our 7000m peak expedition. climber must have at least one 6000m before joining us on open enrollment. climber must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high altitude camps and be able to perform at high for multiple in a row at altitude
  3. This expedition climbing requires the proper right equipment and good condition of climbing equipment. Please visit sidebar Colum Equipment list
  4. We do fix line rope system (Himalaya classic system) and somewhere during the climbing place don't have the fixed-line rope that time our guides will do rope up system.
  5. During the acclimatization day around base camp to camp 2, we will do Traning and practice of climbing technique you  If you are not sure whether you are fit or not then please consult to us email info@ianepal.com / +977 9856008848

Basic Climbing Technique skill require

  • rock and ice climbing 
  • Rope and knots ( figure of eight, clove hitch, Italian hitch, auto block knots)
  • Using climbing equipment (harness, carabineers, ice screw, ice axe, belay device, Jummer
  • Flat footing system (walking) with crampon on ice and snow (up, down and traverses)
  • Belaying technique
  • Anchorage 
  • crevasse rescue technique (self and pully) 

Itineraries

Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel B/B/3star

Day 2: Drive to Jagat via bensishar 10 to 12 hours by bus and Jeep

Day 3: Drive to kangshar village via manang village

Day 4: Acclimatization Day process climb up to 300m

Day 5: Trek to Normal Tilicho base camp

Day 6: Trek to Expedition Tilicho base camp

Day 7-29: Calimb Tilicho Peak

Day 30: Mesokanta la pass yak Kharka

Day 31: Trek jomsom

Day 32: Fly to pokhara

Day 33: drive to Kathamndu

Day 34: Kathmandu

Day 35: Departure

Date and Cost

Departures

Start Date End Date  Availability   
 5th September 2021   5th October 2021   Open    Inquiry 

What To Take

Personal Equipment information Of TILICHO PEAK EXPEDITION 

Down Jacket big one at the base camp (20˚ to -30˚), Down suit, Sleeping bag (-25˚ to -40˚)

Climbing equipment list for TILICHO PEAK EXPEDITION

Helmet, Harness, Ice-axe semi a normal one, Lock carabineers, Unlock carabineers, Quickdraw (2Pic), Tape sling (60cm and 120cm), Auxiliary cord (assistance rope) - 7mm (5mters), Cow’s tail personal safety cord, Belay device (eight, ATC guide or Reverso), Ascender (jumer), Micro Traxion (If you have),Ice screw (10cm and 12cm), Crampons (normal one)

Primary essential 

Passport, Money, Credit Cards, Personal Travel Insurance, Passport size photos, Pen & dairy book, Communication device (laptops, Tap or phone), Camera and other personal documents 

Head

Woolen hat, Fleece hat, Balaclava, Headlamp with enough batteries

Eye protection

Sunglass UV more than 500%, Snow goggles

Note: - if you have eyes problem please consult your doctor because of in Nepal High Mountain has dry air and in the city so much dust

Skin protection

Sunblock cream SPF 25 to 50 (small tube), Lip balm SPF 10 to 15

Note:-depending your skin, please consult your doctor (as our experience some of my clients get allergy from sunblock cream)

Upper body

Down Jacket (- 15˚ to -20˚), Fleece jacket, Gore-Tex Jacket, Trekking t-shirt (quick-dry and breathable), Baselayers Thermal and woolen long shirt

Lower body

Down pant, Gore-tex pant, Climbing pant, Baselayers Thermal and woolen long trouser, Trekking pant, Trekking short pant, Underwears

Hand

Fleece glove, Ski glove, Gore-tex glove, Down mitten glove

Foot

One sport 8000m boot, Alpine boot, Trekking shoes, Approach shoes, Sandal, Woolen and normal socks, Gaiters, and Yaktrax or Kahtoola Microspikes in case of snow if needed especially in the winter trek and high passes

Bed equipment

Three seasonal Sleeping bag (-15˚ to -20˚), Mattress pad, Sleeping liner

Bag pack

Day backpack (15 ltr to 20 ltr), Trekking bag (35 ltr to 50 ltr), Climbing bag (50ltr to 60ltr), Duffle bag (70ltr to 100ltr)

Other accessories

Trekking pole (stick), Drinking water bottle, Pee bottle, Thermos, First aid, Pocket knife, Duct tape (few meters –you can roll-on water bottle or trekking pole), Portable solar charger, Backup power bank, Bathing Suit:- Towel, Toothpaste, and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, a mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers etc.

FAQs

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What type of Travel Insurance do I need for Mount Tilicho Expedition?  

it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 7000m altitude. 

Insurance for Canadians and Americans

For Australians and New Zealanders

For British

For Europe 

For South-Africa

Where and How do I get a Visa for Nepal?

As soon as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will get a visa on arrival.

Visa Type

         Tourist Visa

  •     15 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 30$.
  •     30 days Tourist Visa costs USD 50$
  •     90 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 125$.

Gratis(Free) Visa

For South Asian countries like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka, a gratis visa for 30 days is available for the first visit in one visa year.

Nepal Visa For Indian Nationals

Indian Tourist does not require a visa to enter in Nepal. To know more visit: Nepal Immigration

What do I Need to Get Nepal Visa?

  • Two Passport-sized photos with a light background.
  • Bring Cash USD to get the visa fee.
  • Your passport must valid for at least 6 months.

What type of Accommodation Do I Get at the Mt. Tilicho expedition?

At City: Kathmandu 

  • Hotel / Resorts ( one room for two people)
  • Note: if you need a single room, email us at info@ianepal.com

While Trekking:

·         Eco Lodges ( a small house with few rooms at remote areas)

While Climbing:

  • Tented Camp (minimum 2 people in one tent) above base camp
  • Infinity adventure Nepal provides you v25 model mountaineering Dome Tent.
  • For Single Tent at Tilicho camp each expedition member 

Does Climbing Guide Need for Mt. Tilicho Climbing?

Yes, Climbing Guide is very essential for Mt. Tilicho Peak Climbing because it is not just for being a bit technical, but also due to several reasons like:

  • Climbing Rules and Regulations of Nepal Government.
  • Provide Climbing Training Before Any Climbing
  • Guide Route, Fix Ropes or alpine-style climbing in small group 
  • Sound Altitude Experience
  • Personal Care and Safety, Medical Care
  • Crossing Glacier or Ridges (Crevasses Fields) with Ladder
  • Help for Using all mountaineering gears and equipment, use of Oxygen, high altitude food
  • Provide high mountain rescue techniques at an avalanche.
  • Mountain weather forecast
  • Speak Fluently English

Is this peak suitable for beginners who don't have previous climbing experience?

It is not a suitable peak for a beginner but you will need climbing courses and experience in high mountains above 6000m before you joined the Mt. Tilicho expedition. For the beginner want to join this expedition Please inform us at email info@ianepal.com / +977 9856008848 what’s up app. 

How busy is this Peak?

Comparatively, this Tilicho peak expedition is not much popular mountaineering expedition among the climbers. It has lees human traffic as compared to other peaks. You will rarely meet more than 5 to 10 people during your climbing trip or not.

Which season is the best to summit this peak?

In our vast experience in this field, we recommend a month because our geography and our weather format

we recommended this expedition September to October (Autumn Season)

West region – mid-April, May, mid-September, October, November and till mid-December

East region – April, May, October, November and till mid-December

The trekking and climbing routes are open throughout the four-season although there will be the problems of weather conditions and other circumstances in some season.

Do I need to bring all the climbing gear and equipment personally?

Most of the climbers use their own climbing gear and equipment so it's better if you have your own. Even if you don't have personal gears and equipment you can rent or buy in Kathmandu.

Note: alpine boot and crampon must be a good size and good condition. Better to bring and have your own. 

How much weight a porter can carry?

Depending upon the steep hills, slopes, and difficulties and high altitude of the trail one porter can carry 25 to 30 kilograms of weight.

Usually, we provide one porter for one client.

But, We will also provide porter according to the size of your group if needed.

Will my guide be experienced and certified?

We have very experienced guides who highly trained and experienced, have climbed over 6000m to 8000m peaks as well as and have guides experienced for at least 5 years to 18 years. All our guides are certified from IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides, Nepal Mountaineering Association mountaineering Guide, and trekking guides Ministry of Tourism licensed by Nepal Government.

Can we do this climbing peak with kids?

We take bookings for this peak climbing trip for people over 18 years old. 

What is the tipping ratio? Do I have to pay the tip for climbing guides and porters? If yes, how much?

In Nepal cultural wise, the tip is expected by the climbing guides and base camp Nepali team 

  • USD 100-150 for support staff/helpers who stay base camp
  • USD 200-300  for the base camp head cook
  • USD 250-300 for Sherpa/Base camp guide who manages the base camp
  • USD 600-800 for climbing guide sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit

Do I need to carry Oxygen cylinder and Gamow Bag (PAC)?

Normally, we will add this expedition to each expedition member's Oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator using above camp 3. For the Gamow Bag (PAC) with only at base camp. In case of your requirements or your health issue, the staff of our company IANEPAL will provide you in case of an emergency.

Trek cost includes / excludes

Whats Included

Documentation: - Climbing permit, national park fees, rope fixing fees, and coordination with relevant government ministries. All government taxes are included in the price

Accommodation: - 6-night hotel in Kathmandu 3* Hotel, lodge during trekking and best camping tented at base camp full setup, and one sleeping tent v25 model each member at base camp and one tent searing base 2 people above base camp

Transport: - private bus and off-road Jeep bensishar, koto and pokhara, International airport arrival & departure, all land transportation around cities with a private vehicle, Helicopter evacuation for Nepali team, Porter or yaks for this expedition, 

Communication: - Sat phone with a normal charge for use, Walkie-talkies for mountaineering team, weather report

Light: - Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras, and handheld video cameras). And reading light at each tent in base camp.

Expedition team: - IFMGA Mountain Guide and climbing Sherpas, cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Government Liaison Officer. Equipment allowances & wages for the Nepali expedition team.

Safety equipment: - Oxygen bottle with mask and & regulator, Gamow bag (PAC), First aid kit, Oxy meter, and  common climbing equipment in the group.

Whats not included
  1. Nepal entry visa fee. (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
  2. Personal climbing and wearing gear 
  3. Personal travel insurance
  4. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (Except welcome dinner).
  5. International airfare from/to your country
  6. Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 20kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg) in the domestic flight
  7. Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  8. Personal Oxygen bottle, mask, and regulator
  9. Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, and lost luggage
  10. Customs duty and import tariffs for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal by air/road as cargo.
  11. License fees for personal satellite phone and communications equipment
  12. Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  13. Tips for guides and expedition Nepali team

Cancellation, inclusions and Policies

If our clients fail to make their trip or want to cancel their program due to any unavoidable circumstances following charges will be made for the Trip Cancel

  • Less than 60 days in advance: 15%
  • Less than 45 days in advance: 25%
  • Less than 30 days in advance: 50%
  • Less than 15 days in advance: 75%
  • Less than 10 days in advance: 85%
  • On or after the starting date: No refund will be made

Vital Information

HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS

High-altitude illness is due to a decrease in oxygen at high altitude.

Atmospheric pressure decrease as altitude increases but the percentage of oxygen in the air remains constant; as a result, the partial pressure of oxygen decreases with altitude and is at 5500m (18000 feet) is about ½ of that at the sea level.

High-altitude illness is seen in people in people who have recently arrived at high altitude or have just gained altitude, and may start any time from few hours to a few days after ascending. High altitude is arbitrarily defined as altitudes higher than 3.000 m (10.000 ft). people with heart and hung decreases may have difficulty at lower altitudes and, rarely, a healthy, a healthy person will develop altitude illness at as low as 2500 m (8.200 ft).... READ MORE

RISK AND LIABILITY

IANEPAL will make every effort to ensure that your Expedition be smooth and as pleasant as possible. However, please be reminded that all programs in Nepal are strictly conducted under the rules and regulations of the Nepal Government and Tourism Bureau. Therefore, we shall not be responsible for any changes in the itinerary due to unavoidable circumstances to Government restrictions, landslides, road blockages, flooding, snowfall, political disturbances, illnesses or accidents. Any additional costs that are a result of such circumstances will be borne by you at the very spot.

RELIGIOUS SIGNIFICANCE of TILICHO LAKE

Hindus believe that Tilicho Lake is the ancient Kak Bhusundi Lake mentioned in the epic Ramayana.The sage Kak Bhusundi is believed to have first told the happenings of Ramayana to Garuda - king of birds, near this lake. The sage took the form of a crow while telling the story to Garuda. Crow translates to Kak in Sanskrit, hence the name Kak Bhusndi for the sage


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