TUKUCHE-RI (PEAK)6,920 m EXPEDITION OVERVIEW
High peaks may be climbed for many reasons because success will enhance one's career, or purely for the love of adventure to the unknown and of shared experience under skies. But it is always a satisfaction if at the end of a successful campaign. one can say as Henry Hoek did ‘The journey was our real objective’.
A worthy and challenging mountaineering objective -Tukuche Peak (6920m) is a wonderful mountain just in front of Dhaulagiri I and the Annapurna range near the Kali Gandaki George– the world’s deepest At the summit. It is located in the wild (hidden) Mustang valley – a fantastic trekking destination in the North of Nepal. This journey is a great combination of challenging climbing and impressive trekking.
The scenic trekking with the Tukuche Peak Climbing trip allows and excellent high adventure challenging journey to the Himalayan heartland. Along trekking days you will get a chance to cross some of the difficult passes -Thapa Pass.
This is an adventure in itself. Trek through misty valleys, past amazing terraced fields, and see numerous authentic and culturally unique villages. This is another world where time appears to have stood still. Yaks and goats graze on hilly pastures while villagers pass you with a smile while carrying heavy loads secured by straps on their heads.
Tukuche Peak Expedition begins with flights from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Pokhara to Jomsom. From Jomsom, we head west to the Marpha village, Yak Kharka, Hidden Valley, and Tukuche Base Camp. After proper acclimatization and training, we summit the Tukuche Peak and return via the same route. From Jomsom, we make a return flight to Pokhara and then to Kathmandu
- Impressive, challenging mountain
- Rarely climbed mountain
- 1 sherpa each 2 members
- UIAGM/ IFMGA mountain guide
- High camp equipment
- Climb to the summit of this amazing pyramid-shaped peak nearly 7000m high.
- Unforgettable view of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri range
- A real climbing adventure coupled with a trek through the Annapurna Conservation Area.
- Trek through the deepest gorge in the world surrounded by soaring peaks.
- Experience lifestyles of remote villages in the Mustang region.
- Take a dip at Tatopani hot springs.
- See a diverse array of flora and fauna.
TUKUCHE EXPEDITION CLIMBING CAMPS
- Base Camp - 5,100m.
- Camp 1 – 5,800m.
- Camp 2 – 6,400m.
Tukuche peak North-West climbing route
FIRST ASCENT OF TUKUCHE PEAK
On May 10, 1969, a Swiss expedition managed the first ascent of Tukche Ri and its western side summit. The ascent route led over the Dhampus La and the northwest flank to the summit. Georges Hartmann, Alois Strickler, and the Sherpa Sonam Girmi climbed the main summit that day, while Alfred Hitz and Ruedi Homberger tackled the western summit. Three days later, Ruedi Homberger and Andreas Hirsbrunner climbed the main summit.
Today, several travel agencies offer trekking tours to the top of Tukche Ri (Peak) 6,920m.
you can expect to see Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Dhaulagiri II (7751m), Dhaulagiri III (7715m), Dhaulagiri V (7618m), Annapurna I (8091m), Annapurna South (7219m), Nilgiri North (7061m), Tilicho peak (7,134m) and many other snow-covered peaks. Tukuche Peak is a pyramid-shaped mountain that will satisfy your spirit of adventure.
THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW?
- This is a mountaineering expedition peak. It demands excellent physical fitness and good health To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Have a good overall standard of fitness and experience in the high mountain. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition.
- Climbers must have a substantial climbing experience to join our 7000m peak expedition. climber must have at least one 5500m to 6000m peak before joining us on open enrollment. climber must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high altitude camps and be able to perform at high for multiple in a row at altitude
- This expedition climbing requires the proper right equipment and good condition of climbing equipment. Please visit sidebar Colum Equipment list
- We do fix line rope system (Himalaya classic system) and somewhere during the climbing place don't have the fixed-line rope that time our guides will do rope up system.
- During the acclimatization day around base camp to camp 1, we will do the acclimatization and practice of climbing techniques. If you are not sure whether you are fit or not then please consult us email firstname.lastname@example.org / +977 9856008848 WhatsApp.
BASIC TECHNIQUE SKILLS ALPINE CLIMBING REQUIRE
- Rock and ice
- Rope knots (figure of eight, clove hitch, Italian hitch, prussic, etc.)
- Using a climbing device (harness, carabineers, ice screw, ice-axe, belay device, jumper,
- Flat-footing system (walking) with crampon on ice and snow (up, down and traverses)
- Belaying technique
- Anchorage system
- Basic pully system
Arrival at Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition briefing and preparing
Fly to Pokhara from Kathmandu
Fly to Jomsom and drive to Muktinath village (Acclimatization process for the Expedition)
Drive to Marpha via Jomsom
Trek to Yak Kharka (camping)
Acclimatization day Up to hike 400m hieght
Trek to Hidden valley
Trek to Tukuche base camp
Climbing period for Mt. Tukuche Peak (6,920m.).
Trek back to Yak Kharka
Drive to Tatopani (hot spring)
Leisure day in Kathmandu City
Transfer to International Airport for final departure
Date and Cost
What To Take
EQUIPMENT LIST FOR TUKUCHE PEAK EXPEDITION
Down Jacket big one at the base camp (20˚ to -30˚), Down suit, Sleeping bag (-25˚ to -40˚)
TECHNICAL CLIMBING GEAR
Helmet, Harness, Ice-axe semi a normal one, Lock carabineers, Unlock carabineers, Quickdraw (2Pic), Tape sling (60cm and 120cm), Auxiliary cord (assistance rope) - 7mm (5mters), Cow’s tail personal safety cord, Belay device (eight, ATC guide or reverso), Ascender (jumer), Micro traxtion (If you have),Ice screw (10cm and 12cm), Crampons (normal one)
REGULAR TREKKING GEAR
Passport, Money, Credit Cards, Personal Travel Insurance, Passport size photos, Pen & dairy book, Communication device (laptops, Tap or phone), Camera
Sunglass UV more than 500%,
Note: - if you have eyes problem please consult your doctor because of in Nepal High Mountain has dry air and in the city so much dust
Sunblock cream SPF 25 to 50 (small tube), Lip balm SPF 10 to 15
Note:-depending your skin, please consult your doctor (as our experience some of my clients get allergy from sunblock cream)
Day backpack (15 ltr to 20 ltr), Duct tape (few meters –you can roll-on water bottle or trekking pole), Portable solar charger, Backup power bank, Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste, and brush, floss, mini hairbrush, razor, soap, a mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers, etc and rain cover
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What type of Travel Insurance do I need for Mount TUKUCHE PEAK Expedition?
it is your responsibility to ensure that you are fully and adequately insured for the duration of your trip. Please ensure that all activities, excursions, and destinations in your itinerary are included in your insurance policy, We advise to valuable clients to have full insurance against Medical, Evacuation, Trip cancellation, lost or damaged baggage, Air delays, etc. for this expedition, you must be covered up to 7000m altitude.
Insurance for Canadians and Americans
For Australians and New Zealanders
Where and How do I get a Visa for Nepal?
As soon as you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will get a visa on arrival.
- 15 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 30$.
- 30 days Tourist Visa costs USD 50$
- 90 days of Tourist Visa costs USD 125$.
For South Asian countries like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, gratis visa for 30 days is available for the first visit in one visa year.
Nepal Visa For Indian Nationals
Indian Tourist does not require a visa to enter in Nepal. To know more visit: Nepal Immigration
What do I Need to Get Nepal Visa?
- Two Passport-sized photos with a light background.
- Bring Cash USD to get the visa fee.
- Your passport must valid for at least 6 months.
What type of Accommodation Do I Get at the Mt. TUKUCHE PEAK expedition?
At City: Kathmandu / Pokhara
- Hotel / Resorts ( one room for two people)
- Note: if you need a single room, email us at email@example.com
· Eco Lodges ( a small house with few rooms at remote areas)
- Tented Camp (minimum 2 people in one tent) above base camp
- Infinity adventure Nepal provides you v25 model mountaineering Dome Tent.
- For Single Tent at base camp each expedition member
Does Climbing Guide Need for Mt. TUKUCHE PEAK Climbing?
Yes, Climbing Guide is very essential for Mt. TUKUCHE Peak Climbing because it is not just for being a bit technical, but also due to several reasons like:
- Climbing Rules and Regulations of Nepal Government.
- Provide Climbing Training Before Any Climbing
- Guide Route, Fix Ropes or alpine-style climbing in small group
- Sound Altitude Experience
- Personal Care and Safety, Medical Care
- Crossing Glacier or Ridges (Crevasses Fields) with Ladder
- Help for Using all mountaineering gears and equipment, use of Oxygen, high altitude food
- Provide high mountain rescue techniques at an avalanche.
- Mountain weather forecast
- Speak Fluently English
Is this peak suitable for beginners who don't have previous climbing experience?
It is not a suitable peak for a beginner but you will need climbing courses and experience in high mountains above 6000m before you joined the Mt. TUKUCHE PEAK expedition. For the beginner want to join this expedition Please inform us at email firstname.lastname@example.org / +977 9856008848 Whatsapp.
How busy is this Peak?
Comparatively, this expedition is a much popular mountaineering expedition among the climbers. It has lees human traffic as compared to other peaks. You will rarely meet more than 5 to 20 people during your climbing trip.
Which season is the best to summit this peak?
In our vast experience in this field, we recommend a month because our geography and our weather format
we recommended this expedition September to November (Autumn Season)
West region – mid-April, May, mid-September, October, November and till mid-December
East region – April, May, October, November and till mid-December
The trekking and climbing routes are open throughout the four-season although there will be the problems of weather conditions and other circumstances in some season.
Do I need to bring all the climbing gear and equipment personally?
Most of the climbers use their own climbing gear and equipment so it's better if you have your own. Even if you don't have personal gears and equipment you can rent or buy in Kathmandu.
Note: alpine boot and crampon must be a good size and good condition. Better to bring and have your own.
How much weight a porter can carry?
Depending upon the steep hills, slopes, and difficulties and high altitude of the trail one porter can carry 25 to 30 kilograms of weight.
Usually, we provide one porter for one client.
But, We will also provide porter according to the size of your group if needed.
Will my guide be experienced and certified?
We have very experienced guides who highly trained and experienced, have climbed over 6000m to 8000m peaks as well as and have guides experienced for at least 5 years to 18 years. All our guides are certified from IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides, Nepal Mountaineering Association mountaineering Guide, and trekking guides Ministry of Tourism licensed by Nepal Government.
Can we do this climbing peak with kids?
We take bookings for this peak climbing trip for people over 18 years old.
What is the tipping ratio? Do I have to pay the tip for climbing guides and porters? If yes, how much?
In Nepal cultural wise, the tip is expected by the climbing guides and base camp Nepali team
- USD 100-150 for support staff/helpers who stay base camp
- USD 200-300 for the base camp head cook
- USD 250-300 for Sherpa/Base camp guide who manages the base camp
- USD 600-800 for climbing guide sherpa who accompanies you up to the top of the summit
Do I need to carry Oxygen cylinder and Gamow Bag (PAC)?
Normally, we will add this expedition to each expedition member's Oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator using above camp 3. For the Gamow Bag (PAC) with only at base camp. In case of your requirements or your health issue, the staff of our company IANEPAL will provide you in case of an emergency.
Trek cost includes / excludes
Documentation: - Climbing permit, national park fees, rope fixing fees, and coordination with relevant government ministries. All government taxes are included in the price
Accommodation: - 6-night hotel in Kathmandu 3* & Pokhara Hotel, lodge during trekking and best camping tented at base camp full setup, and one sleeping tent v25 model each member at base camp and one tent searing base 2 people above base camp
Transport: - domestic flight kathamndu-pokhara-jomsom-pokhara, off-road Jeep Muktinath temple, International airport arrival & departure, all land transportation around cities with a private vehicle, Helicopter evacuation for Nepali team, Porter or yaks for this expedition,
Communication: - Sat phone with a normal charge for use, Walkie-talkies for mountaineering team, weather report
Light: - Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging small electronics. (Eg. laptops, mobile phones, amateur digital cameras, and handheld video cameras). And reading light at each tent in base camp.
Expedition team: - IFMGA Mountain Guide and climbing Sherpas, cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Government Liaison Officer. Equipment allowances & wages for the Nepali expedition team.
Safety equipment: - Oxygen bottle with mask and & regulator at base camp, Gamow bag (PAC), First aid kit, Oxy meter, and common climbing equipment in the group.
Whats not included
- Nepal entry visa fee. (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
- Personal travel insurance
- Personal climbing and wearing gear
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (Except welcome dinner).
- International airfare from/to your country
- Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 20kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg) in the domestic flight
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
- Personal Oxygen bottle, mask, and regulator
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation, and lost luggage
- Customs duty and import tariffs for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal by air/road as cargo.
- License fees for personal satellite phone and communications equipment
- Personal expenses (phone calls, internet, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
- Tips for guides and expedition Nepali team
Cancellation, inclusions and Policies
RISK AND LIABILITY
IANEPAL will make every effort to ensure that your Expedition is smooth and as pleasant as possible. However, please be reminded that all programs in Nepal are strictly conducted under the rules and regulations of the Nepal Government and Tourism Bureau. Therefore, we shall not be responsible for any changes in the itinerary due to unavoidable circumstances to Government restrictions, landslides, road blockages, flooding, snowfall, political disturbances, illnesses, or accidents. Any additional costs that are a result of such circumstances will be borne by you at the very spot.
HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS
High-altitude illness is due to a decrease in oxygen at high altitude.
Atmospheric pressure decrease as altitude increases but the percentage of oxygen in the air remains constant; as a result, the partial pressure of oxygen decreases with altitude and is at 5500m (18000 feet) is about ½ of that at the sea level.
High-altitude illness is seen in people in people who have recently arrived at high altitude or have just gained altitude and may start any time from few hours to a few days after ascending. High altitude is arbitrarily defined as altitudes higher than 3.000 m (10.000 ft). people with heart and hung decreases may have difficulty at lower altitudes and, rarely, a healthy, a healthy person will develop altitude illness at as low as 2500 m (8.200 ft).... READ MORE